Heavy production scale and rust on mild steel — that's carbon-brush work (46805/46806 carbon stripping brushes, or a MAXXGRIP); there's no contamination reason to spend a stainless brush on plain steel.
Fine grout-line detail — the .35mm wire is coarser and the body is a stripping profile, not the narrow 5/8" grout face (46811/46812).
Delicate/soft/plated surfaces — stainless wire still scratches; use brass or nylon fill.
Applying stripper — lay stripper with a cheap chip brush (a sacrificial natural-bristle applicator); this tool removes, it doesn't apply.
A stripping brush is a scrub tool with a scraper bonus. The wire cuts on its tips
moderate pressure, work it in the direction of the grain or the profile, let the stiffness cut the softened residue rather than leaning (which folds stainless wire and makes it skate). The scraper shears on its edge — low angle, steady push, lift the crust rather than digging under it. In stripping, the golden rule is re-wet, don't force: if the residue fights back, it needs more dwell time with the chemical, not more muscle. And because this is stainless, keep it away from carbon-steel work if you want it to stay a clean, contamination-safe brush.
Asked at the counter
BUYER QUESTIONS ANSWERED BEFORE THE CART, NOT AFTER THE RETURN
What size is the brush face?
The source data conflicts — catalog says 1/2" × 5-1/4", the product page says 1-3/4" × 5". This guide won't pick one until the tool is physically confirmed. What's certain: stainless, .35mm wire, scraper nose, shoe handle.
Why stainless instead of the cheaper carbon version?
For wet chemical stripping (no rust bloom in the sludge) and for stripping/adhesive work on stainless or aluminum (no iron contamination).
What's the scraper for?
Crusted spots the wire skips — thick paint scabs, hardened residue, gasket crust. Scrape, then scrub.
Can I use it to spread the stripper on?
No — use a sacrificial chip brush to apply; this tool removes.
