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Bevel Point Knife BG268
Official Hyde specifications
Blade dimensions
4" x 1" x .065"
Hardened high-carbon steel blade, ground and tempered to precise tolerances. Blade is securely riveted in place with a strong nickel-plated ferrule. Hardened handle
PRODUCT FIT · IS THIS THE RIGHT TOOL?Straight answers. If it's the wrong tool for your job, we'll say so.
The guidance below describes applications and limitations. For a match to your particular job or an existing tool, ask us to confirm fit.
Not maximum-force stub work — when the job is short-stroke cutting at the limit of hand pressure and the knife takes prying and gouging abuse, the 2-inch 14-gauge 61080 is the tool built to survive it, and the 60300's longer, thinner blade is the wrong lever.
Not station consumable duty — this is a maintained one-owner knife, not a blade a cutting floor buys by the box (that is the extension-blade half of the line).
Not contour steering — a swept curved line wants the Paris Curve or curve-point patterns, not a bevel point's straight run.
Not the square-end job — if the work needs a blade that refuses to puncture the layer beneath, that is the square-point line, not this knife.
Handle in the palm, the cut made with the arm and shoulder on long draws, the wrist for close work; let the swept edge do the cutting and the point do the starting. Angle for the start. To pierce, present the point steeply and commit through the surface; to draw, lay the edge down into the material and pull along the line — over a sacrificial surface whenever the point may travel through the work. Maintain the edge on a stone. High-carbon steel takes and re-takes a keen edge easily; a bench stone works the straight edge, and the point gets dressed keen and protected from prying. Wipe it dry. Carbon steel blooms rust after wet or adhesive-bearing work; a wipe-down is the whole maintenance ritual, and a riveted personal knife rewards it with years. It is a knife, not a pry bar — the point survives honest cutting, not levering.
Asked before buying
BUYER QUESTIONS, ANSWERED BEFORE YOU ORDER
What is a bevel-point knife for?
Everything a one-knife bench needs — long draw cuts, trimming, and starting cuts or working corners with the point — in leather, rubber, and sheet goods. It pierces and cuts in the same tool.
How is it different from the 61080?
Blade size. The 60300 is a full 4" × 16-gauge knife for cutting along its edge; the 61080 is a 2" × 14-gauge stub for concentrated force and abuse. Reach and versatility vs pressure and survivability.
Why does the store call it a "Double Bevel Point Knife"?
That's the storefront title; it reads as a symmetric two-sided grind carrying the edge to a centered point. The catalog name is "Bevel Point Knife BG268"; we treat the grind reading as ours until confirmed.
What's the handle?
Hardwood, with the blade riveted in place by a nickel-plated ferrule — the catalog's stated trade-knife build. (A fact-sheet extraction reads "Hardened handle"; hardwood is the documented reading.)
Does it need a point-vs-square decision?
Yes — if you need a blade that refuses to puncture the layer beneath, that's the square-point line. The 60300 is the one that reaches into the work.
Hardened high-carbon steel blade, ground and tempered to precise tolerances. Blade is securely riveted in place with a strong nickel-plated ferrule. Hardened handle.
