Like every pointed knife here, the #2 cuts through to whatever lies beneath — so inside starts happen over a board or a lifted pinch of material, never over a surface that matters. Commit the longer stroke. The #2's advantage is the single long pull; hesitation on a long inside cut lets the line wander, so draw it continuously with the point leading. Angle. Steep to pierce, laid down to draw. Keep the point. Every cut starts with the tip, so a rounded point costs more here than a tired edge; hone the point above all, and never twist or pry with it. Edge and rust. High-carbon cutlery steel — hone on a stone, wipe dry after wet, adhesive, or oily work; the re-takeable keen edge is the return on a riveted personal knife.
Asked at the counter
BUYER QUESTIONS ANSWERED BEFORE THE CART, NOT AFTER THE RETURN
Why choose the #2 over the #1?
Length — 3-3/4" versus 3-1/4". The #2 makes a long interior cut in one committed stroke; the #1 is finer for tight, close cutouts. Same 17-gauge steel, so it is purely a reach choice.
What is the sharp point for?
Starting a cut in the middle of a panel — pierce, then draw. The square-point knife is built to refuse exactly that; this is its opposite.
Is the steel really 17 gauge?
Yes — Hyde's own product URL for the #2 states it, and .058" is 17 gauge on this line's gauge ladder.
Do I need a cutting surface under it?
Always, for inside starts — the point goes through to whatever is beneath. That discipline governs every pointed knife here.
Rust and upkeep?
High-carbon cutlery steel: hone on a stone, keep the point keen, wipe dry after wet or oily work.
