How thick a tile can it cut?
No capacity is published for this tool, and this page won't invent one . In practice the method reads on standard glazed wall and floor bisque; the material boundary (porcelain, stone) arrives before a thickness boundary does.
The snap didn't follow my line — can I re-score?
Not on the same line. A second pass in the groove produces a ragged wandering score. If the tile survived, score a fresh line on fresh glaze; if it snapped wrong, the layout note about generous cut rows is your friend on the next piece.
Can it cut a curve if I go slowly?
No. Speed is not the variable — a bent score line cannot govern a snap, and the crack abandons the arc for a straight path. Curves belong to the nipper (hidden) and the rod saw (visible).
Will it cut porcelain?
Unreliably at best. Porcelain resists the handheld score and snaps off-line from shallow flaws. For a porcelain job, rent the wet saw or a rail cutter; this page would rather say so than cost you a box of tile.
Where do I get a replacement wheel?
The catalog calls the wheel replaceable, but no replacement wheel appears in this store's corpus — an assortment flag carried in the line's register. Until that resolves, protect the wheel like it is the tool, because it is.
What's the breaker bar for?
The bend. Score centered over the bar, press both sides evenly, and the bar concentrates the flex exactly under your line. Without it you'd be improvising with a dowel — which also works, and is the right move on tiles too big for the tool.
Scriber or nipper first, if I'm buying one?
Scriber — straight cuts outnumber shapes on almost every job. Buy the nipper the day the room includes an outlet, a pipe, or a corner. Most rooms do.
