How to Tape and Finish Drywall Joints
Turn hung drywall into a paintable wall with three coats: tape, fill, skim. Each coat is wider and thinner than the last and must be dry before the next.
What you need
- all-purpose joint compound (setting-type for pre-fills and mesh)
- paper joint tape
- 150 to 220 grit sanding screens
- drywall primer
Steps
- Drive proud screws below flush. Pre-fill gaps wider than 1/4" between sheets with setting compound and let it harden.
- Thin all-purpose compound to thick-yogurt consistency for the tape coat. Keep the pan rim scraped.
- Bed a layer of compound about 1/8" thick on the joint with a 6" knife, press paper tape in, and wipe from center to each end.
- Leave about 1/16" of compound under the tape. Fold tape for inside corners and coat one side per coat. Spot screws.
- Shave nibs off the dry tape coat. Fill with an 8 to 10" knife, feathering a few inches past the tape coat.
- Skim with a 12" knife. Finish tapered joints 12 to 14" wide and butt joints 20 to 24" wide.
- Sand with 150 to 220 grit on a pole sander, long light strokes. Stop when paper fibers rise.
- Check under a low work lamp, touch up, then prime the whole wall with drywall primer.
Tips
- Use paper tape on every inside corner and flat joint. Use mesh only with setting-type compound.
- Never tape onto a dry joint. Starved tape bubbles and peels when the next coat wets it.
- Finish one side of a corner per coat so the knife does not gouge the wet face.
- Prime before paint. Unprimed compound and paper take paint at different rates and show as dull stripes.
Watch out
- Do not mud over a bubble. Cut it out, re-bed and re-tape.
- Outside corners get metal or vinyl corner bead, not tape.
- Fuzzed paper and scratched tape show through paint. Seal with primer and skim before sanding again.
Questions about the right tool for your job? Email cs@hydestore.com or call 508-916-6442.